21st Oct, 19

Getting the most out of your Microneedling treatment

Needle therapy for cosmetic benefit has been around the 90s. It has been mostly well known for it's powerful collagen making abilities to combat ageing and scarring. It's popularity only continues to grow and now with being on offer in most beauty and aesthetics clinics it means its more accessible than ever. In the right the hands the powers of this treatment continues to amaze and is now being widely used for acne, rosacea, pigmentation and anyone looking to resurface their skin or to get the glow.


so what is it?

Simply put, mico needling is the insertion of very fine needles in to the skin to create micro channels or micro wounds. However you prefer to say it it sounds scary but the punctures are so microscopic theres honestly minimal trauma or discomfort. A serum is also first applied to also offer mesotherpy benefits.


And what are the benefits?

Microneedling does 2 things 

1. The serum applied prior to the needling means the ingredients in the serum will be delivered deep in to the skin for greater benefit than if just applied topically.

2. Manipulates skin function and uses the bodys own healing response to not only induce collagen but promotes healthy skin functioning and rejuvenate the skin.

For such a simple mechanism of treatment it's results can vary greatly and be very practitioner dependent.

So heres my top tips to make sure your practitioner is getting the best possible result for you.


1. Find out what needling device is being used -

The most common devices are rollers, stamps and pens. Roller devices are needle covered barrels that are rolled back and forth across the skin puncturing as it goes. A stamp is as you would expect - a needle covered stamp that is pressed in to the skin and then pen devices are powered electronic devices that resembles a pen and has a cluster of needles in the end that move up and down within the skin as the pen is glided over the surface.

In my experience- powered pen devices offer the most precision, the most comfort and the most channels for your money. The needle lenght can be adjusted to be shorter on more sensitive areas such as around the eyes, forehead and upper lip and longer on the fattier cheeks - very quickly within the same treatment. This is also advantageous if treating a multitude of skin concerns - so if theres ant areas of scarring the needle length can be made longer to work on the scarring but shorter on the other areas where a scarring treatment needle length is not required. 

A pen device will also have - or should have - a single use cartridge that is disposed of after treatment, ensuring sterile conditions every time. Sterility of the treatment is really really really important to eliminate the risk of infection and cross contamination. That means sterile gloves, using A-septic non touch technique, sterile cover for the pen, sterile meso serum even! 


2. Find out what ingredients are in the serums being used during the treatment - 

A basic needling treatmentshould include lots of hyaluronic acid at the least. This stuff is naturally found in the skin and is what keeps us supple and hydrated. Skin lacking in hyaluronic acid such as aged or damaged skin, can look dull and dehydrated.

But alas! Not all hyaluronic acids are created equal - different hyaluronic acids will differ in molecular weight and differ in concentration per ml too. Lower molecular weights are great for dehydrated skin, whilst higher loecular weights are best for helping to maintain the skins barrier - so the molecular weight best for your skin will be dependent on your skin concerns. A hyaluronic acid with a greater concentration per ml will also make sure that your getting a decent amount - I honestly can't get enough!

Hyaluronic acid aside - make sure your practitioner is using ingredients targeted to your skin concerns such as anti-ageing peptides for ageing skin or vitamin rich serums for sensitive rosacea or damaged skin.


3. Be specific about your skin concerns

This will dictate 3 things - 1. What ingredients are used in the treatment, 2. how deep the needle needs to go and 3. How often you need to be having your treatments. So for instance for anti-ageing or scar remodelling i.e collagen stimulation the practitioner will need to needle down in to the dermis - the 2nd layer of skin every 4-6 weeks whereas for pigmentation or acne the practioner will only need to needle superficially in to the epidermis - the most upper layer of skin every 2-3 weeks

4. Is the microneedling being enhanced with combination therapies?

Microneedling treatments to resurface the skin can be combined with a chemical peel or opt for a pre microneedling deep exfoliation such as microdermabrasion or enzyme peel to remove dead skin cells prior to treatment to really enhance results.


5. Are you using optimal post treatment skincare?

For the first few days following treatment the focus should be on soothing, repairing and protecting. That means ingredients like allatoin, copper peptides and B vitamins. From around day 5-7 you should be incorporating ingredients like retinol and vitamin C back in to your regimeto compliment the remodelling phase of the healing process that your skin will now be going through. And the sun is the absolute worst for degrading collagenso make sure you're protecting your newly made collagen by wearing a broad spectrum SPF everyday - make sure it contains physical sun screens rather than chemical as some chemicals can be quite irritating - not fun when applied to post treatment skin.

So if you've been thinking about microneedling and have any questions please get in touch and make my day - theres nothing I like to talk about more than skin and the fascinating benefits of micro needling :)